L’Aquila, Earthquake, Capoluogo d’Abruzzo, Terremoto, Perdonanza, Porta Santa, Celestino V, Federico II, Giubileo, G8 L’Aquila 2009

The little church of San Vito, in the 99 spunts fountain zone

Twenty eight seconds that changed a thousand years of history. Monday 6 April 2009. By an ironic coincidence, the calendar for the day i dedicated to Celestine I, a medieval pope was a precursor of Pietro da Morrone, the more celebrated Celestine V, the only one in the history of the church who abdicated in order to return to the seclusion of monastic life. As patron saint of L’Aquila, his remains are entombed in the church of Collemaggio. 3.32′,47” am. Twenty eight seconds later, L’Aquila is unrecognisable.
So many lives taken. The final count is daunting: 299 victims. Medieval and baroque churches and a modern hospital – they all collapsed without distinction. Like the imposing palazzo of the Prefecture, the town hall. On paper, designated as the coordination site for emergencies; in the cold light of day, a mass of rubble. 

L’Aquila is proud of its history as an ancient capital, European and cosmopolitan. Emperor Frederick II (1194-1250), “Stupor mundi” (wonder of the world), wanted the town to be strong and invincible. The most northerly town of the Southern Kingdom that Frederick ruled on the shores of the Mediterranean. Whit tragic irony, the motto on his banner is “Immota manet” (remains unmoved). The town is the “Queen of the Apennine mountains, like the magnificent bird of prey from which it takes its name (Aquila means eagle).

Tradition has it that the town is made up of 99 castles, 99 churches, 99 fountains. A crossroads of history.

In August 1294 at the church of Collemaggio, the hermit friar Pietro Angelerio del Morrone was crowned pope in the presence of cardinals, bishops, princes and an immense and joyous crowd. The election was considered an extraordinary event and led to great disappointment. On the day of his enthronement, the pious friar arrived in L’Aquila from the mountains village of Morrone, near Sulmona, riding a donkey like Jesus in his Jerusalem escorted by King Charles of Anjou and his son, who claimed they were protecting him. The newly elected pope ingenuously accepted their offer.

During the 18th century, under the Bourbon dynasty, L’Aquila was the second largest city after the capital, in terms of population. Therefore always aware of its rank and importance on geopolitican chequerboard of Italy before unification.

Collemaggio. The opening of the Holy Door

Every year in August the ritual pardon is repeated: pope Celestine, king Cherles, the papal bull or edict, the opening of the Holy Door of the Collemaggio church, indulgences for the faithful who pass through the door. The event is a celebration of sacred and profane. The cortege with participants dressed in period costumes, winds through the town centre to the forecourt of the church. A sort of reenactment of that special day eight hundred years ago. For churchgoers and believers, it is the time of penitence and spiritual communion. For those who base their live on the power of reason, it is the time to think about the best way to trasform past glories into resources for uncertai future. But for everyone it is a moment of unity and identity. Next August, the “Perdonanz dell’Aquila” will take place with most of the churces closed for repairs. Pope Benedict XVI has said that he himself might be present, for the first time in eight hundred years. In the eyes of the population, Pope Ratzinger has alredy acquired a certain standing – during his recent visit to the devastated town, he stopped in prayer before the tomb of Celestine V. It had never happened before – no pope had ever done so. The sophisticated theologian before the remains of a reluctant friar, alone in the desolation of the ruined church of Collemaggio. An image of powerful spirituality for lay people and believers alike. A message hope for the ancient and proud town swept away by earthquake. Twentyeigth seconds thst changed a thousand years of history. But L’Aquila will spread its wings once again and soar gracefully over the Abruzzi mountains.

Luigi Vicinanza, director of  ”Il Centro” newspaper

Pope Benedict XVI duris his visit to Celestine V

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